Day One: Railways & Portmeirion
Morning. Begin with an early train on the Ffestiniog Railway. Take the first departure from Harbour Station for the full round trip to Blaenau Ffestiniog. The journey up (60 minutes) is best in the morning with the sun behind you looking north into the mountains; book a seat on the right-hand side of the train heading up. Either return directly to Porthmadog or break the journey at Tan-y-Bwlch for a woodland walk and return on a later train.
Afternoon. After lunch at the station cafe, drive the four miles to Portmeirion for the afternoon. Allow three hours to explore the village, walk the woodland paths and reach the estuary beach. The afternoon light on the Italianate facades is excellent for photography.
Evening. Dinner at the Portmeirion Hotel restaurant (book ahead) or return to Porthmadog for one of the town’s pubs or restaurants.
Day Two: Beach & Castle
Morning. Drive three miles to Black Rock Sands for a morning on the beach. Drive onto the sand, set up, and spend two or three hours swimming, walking and enjoying the mountain backdrop. Arrive before 10am on busy days.
Afternoon. Drive west along the A497 to Criccieth (15 minutes) for a visit to the castle — the views from the walls across Cardigan Bay are superb — followed by ice cream from Cadwalader’s on the front. Alternatively, drive south to Harlech Castle (25 minutes) for a more dramatic UNESCO fortress experience. Both repay the short detour.
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